Omega’s new Speedmaster is the latest to win from Vintage Vogue


This is inevitable The past casts a long shadow over something as inherently retro as the watch industry, whose existence today can be seen as anachronistic and in which many of the most important historical designs have never gone. For example, Patek Phillipe’s Nautilus, a watch that is currently so hot that steel versions with a retail price of £ 26,870 ($ 36,512) are trading for $ 100,000 more than that, has a design virtually unchanged since 1974; The dress watch of the same brand Calatrava dates back to 1932.

On the other hand, the thriving retro market, the spread of scholarships and awareness among online communities and the continuing thirst for retro, which generates new versions of everything from old school gaming consoles and analog synthesizers to classic cars recreated to the latest rivet engine, creates an increasingly rich landscape for brands to grab archives. As evidenced by the following retro models.

Omega Speedmaster 321 Canopus Gold

Omega Speedmaster 321

Photo: Omega

Most people know Speedmaster as the watch that went to the moon with NASA astronauts, but it began to exist as a wristwatch for motor sports in 1957. This version goes back to the original 1957 model, albeit in a super-deluxe format: The case is in Canopus gold (especially the bright alloy of white gold of Omega), not steel, and the dial is cut from black onyx.

But in this case, the real vintage game is the movement (the mechanical “engine” that drives the clock) inside it. Three years ago, Omega put back into (extremely limited) production a manual winding mechanism, which it last made in 1969, Caliber 321, retaining a special workshop in its high-tech factory for manual assembly in the old-fashioned way.

The 321 caliber propelled Speedmasters worn by Apollo astronauts in the 1960s and early 1970s (including moon landings), and held a special place of love among enthusiasts and collectors. This is only the third modern watch that contains it: retro on the outside, even more on the inside, but with an eye-catching modern price of $ 81,000. A glimmer of hope is that if we were convinced of betting, we would be investing in Omega at some point, releasing a more affordable steel version of this piece.

Zenith Chronomaster Original

Zenith Chronomaster Original

Photo: Zenith

Unlike the Omega caliber 321, Zenith’s historic chronograph, El Primero, never went out of production: Introduced in 1969, it was the first self-winding chronograph (chronograph watch) and was the backbone of Zenith watchmaking. . from. It was also used by Rolex in the 90s. Today’s El Primero is a completely modern engine, but Zenith is playing on its old origins with a series of retro-inspired models.



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